A Seat at the Table: Andy Shallal’s Journey in the Restaurant Industry
In his new memoir, A Seat at the Table, Andy Shallal offers readers an intimate look into his life as he navigates the bustling world of the restaurant industry while grappling with his Iraqi-immigrant identity. Shallal’s story unfolds against the backdrop of his first experiences in the U.S., beginning as a young teenager working in his father’s Annandale pizza shop. Over the years, he successfully established notable Washington D.C. eateries such as Café Luna, Skewers, and Mimi’s.
Shallal’s narrative is not just about food; it’s a chronicle of resistance and activism, rooted in his early encounters with racism and a profound desire to carve out a space where he—and others like him—could feel welcome.
Finding a Safe Space
Shallal vividly describes the dislocation and alienation he experienced upon moving to the United States at the age of 11. "Ever since I got to this country, I felt like an alien on a different planet," he shares. Thrust into an environment where he was not only navigating a new culture but also attending school two years ahead of his peers, Shallal sought to build safe havens. This need to create inclusive spaces became a guiding principle in how he runs his restaurants.
"I wanted to create places that I’d feel good being in, that I’d feel welcomed in," he explains. This vision transformed into a mission, informing the ambiance and ethos of his establishments.
The Duality of Identity
Decades later, Shallal’s understanding of his identity remains complex. "Finding my tribe was my mission from the time I came here, right?" he reflects. His emotional ties to America oscillate between love and frustration; the country represents both opportunity and a battleground for his activism. "Sometimes I just want to find a way out," he admits, grappling with a profound sense of belonging amid a reality that often feels hostile.
Business Meets Politics
Shallal’s commitment to intertwining business and social issues has been a defining aspect of his career since the early days of Café Luna and Skewers. The restaurant scene has often shied away from political discourse, but Shallal considers it crucial. "I’ve always felt like immigrants and people like myself are actually the insurance policy for democracy," he asserts, drawing from his experiences in Iraq under Saddam Hussein’s regime.
His activism has persisted through various administrations, with a particular focus on advocating against the rise of authoritarianism and promoting social justice. "I don’t want to happen to this country is for it to slip into fascism, which is real," he warns, underlining the necessity of vigilance in maintaining democratic values.
Facing Down Challenges
Being outspoken comes with risks. Shallal recounts how his vocal support for immigrants brought unforeseen consequences, including an unsettling encounter with Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) shortly after he joined a nationwide campaign, A Day Without Immigrants. "I don’t know whether there was a correlation," he admits, reflecting on the intense scrutiny faced by his business. Despite facing backlash, Shallal is unwavering in his commitment to activism, perhaps inspired by a sense of duty towards others.
Embracing Resistance
In the current social media landscape, where public opinion can shift rapidly, Shallal finds himself amidst a storm of opinions. Instances of online mob behavior—like the backlash from canceling an event related to anti-abortion activism—illustrate the high-stakes environment in which he operates. That situation led to harassment of his staff, showcasing the personal toll activism can take.
Yet, for Shallal, engagement with these pressing issues acts as a source of joy and motivation. "If I’m sitting at home and I know that I could be out at a demonstration, I just don’t enjoy sitting at home," he shares, emphasizing how collective action helps ward off feelings of despair.
Focus on Community Engagement
A significant portion of Shallal’s energy now lies within D.C., particularly regarding local initiatives like the I-82 law aimed at eliminating the tipped minimum wage. He recognizes the challenges the restaurant industry faces but emphasizes the need for a more professionalized workforce. "I want it to be a place where people can look at it as a career," he states, articulating a vision where restaurant work is not merely a job of last resort but a respected profession.
His efforts extend into community development, particularly in Anacostia, where he fosters collaboration among local activists, church leaders, and businesspeople. This movement aims to empower youth and provide alternatives to violence, reflecting Shallal’s belief in the transformative power of community.
The State of the Restaurant Industry
Shallal’s insights extend beyond personal experience to broader industry trends. He recalls historical alarmism from the Restaurant Association regarding legislation like the smoking ban, noting that fears often fail to materialize. “None of that happened,” he reflects critically, suggesting that similar anxieties surrounding tipping and wage reforms may be unfounded.
Reflections on His Memoir
Notably, A Seat at the Table ends rather unexpectedly with the launch of Busboys and Poets, indicating the profound journey still unfolding. Shallal acknowledges the rich tapestry of experiences since then, leaving readers curious about potential future writings. "Writing a book is more difficult than most people think," he admits, highlighting the challenges of defining the narrative and its audience.
Andy Shallal’s journey through the restaurant industry is a testament to resilience, community, and activism, weaving a compelling narrative of personal struggle that resonates with broader social movements. Each chapter reflects not only his professional evolution but also the intertwining of identity, culture, and responsibility in an ever-changing world.