Chloé’s Evolving Elegance: Chemena Kamali’s Vision at Paris Fashion Week

By THOMAS ADAMSON
AP Fashion Writer

PARIS (AP) — At this season’s Paris Fashion Week, Chemena Kamali unveiled a collection at Chloé that captured the essence of feminine elegance through stunning flower prints. This old-fashioned charm paired with contemporary refinement showcased Kamali’s ability to weave themes into garments, offering a fresh perspective while remaining true to the brand’s roots.

A Return to Familiar Grounds

Now in her third tenure with the illustrious fashion house, Kamali’s history with Chloé is rich and multifaceted. Originally from Germany, much like the legendary Karl Lagerfeld, she has deep familiarity with the house’s aesthetic, having previously worked under illustrious designers like Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller. Her recent return as creative director positions her uniquely to reinterpret and rejuvenate the brand while respecting its legacy.

Chloé’s Legacy: A Feminine Revolution

Founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé is widely regarded as the pioneer of Parisian ready-to-wear fashion, presenting a softer, more feminine alternative to high couture. Kamali’s latest collection beautifully embodies this core ethos, channeling the romantic sensibilities Aghion originally established. Her designs echo the fluidity of Lagerfeld’s ’70s capes and lace while seamlessly integrating elements reminiscent of the 2000s “Chloé girl.” Balancing functionality and style, the collection promotes “intuitive” dressing that resonates with the modern woman’s dynamic lifestyle.

Prints and Pastels: Setting the Tempo

The collection featured an array of prints that not only dazzled the eye but also dictated the overall rhythm of the show. As the silhouettes evolved, a trapeze line in a luminous pearlized yellow emerged alongside layers of coats and skirts that were both knotted and softly gleaming. This interplay between rich colors and clean lines emphasized Chloé’s signature aesthetic—feminine yet uncomplicated, with a clean flash of leg that highlighted the collection’s vivacity.

Architectural Details: A Play on Proportions

One of the standout looks exemplified Kamali’s vision: a draped, ruched, and pleated ensemble that showcased dramatic ’80s-inspired maxi-shoulders and a dropped waist. This piece conveyed a confident fluidity, while a gray coatdress underscored a quiet authority with its dropped hem detailing. Another noteworthy creation—a tan coat-skirt hybrid—masterfully blended the lines of coat and dress, proving that versatility can be both stylish and practical.

Subtle References: Past Meets Present

In the collection, references to past design eras were artfully tuned, rather than overtly pronounced. The flowing forms reminiscent of Lagerfeld’s ’70s designs, the casual vibe of the early 2000s “Chloé girl,” and a hint of ’80s structural boldness formed a cohesive narrative. Each garment appeared as a testament to memory, proof of Kamali’s ability to translate history into contemporary fashion.

A Cautionary Note: Balancing Weight and Lightness

While much of the collection effectively embodied Chloé’s hallmark freshness, there was an underlying caution when it came to bolder silhouettes. As outerwear gained weight and shoulders became more pronounced, it occasionally threatened to overshadow the lighter romantic essence of the pieces. Nevertheless, the majority of the collection maintained its balance, with only a few designs pushing the limits too far.

The Impact of Kamali’s Vision

Ultimately, the collection distilled themes of romance intertwined with discipline, establishing a dialogue between the past and the present. Each garment not only conveyed aesthetic pleasure but also evoked emotion, selling a feeling just as strongly as the clothes themselves. Kamali’s steadying hand guided Chloé into a new era, creating a rhythm that promises to resonate well beyond the confines of the runway.