Vivienne Westwood’s Surreal Paris Fashion Week Showcase
By Thomas Adamson, AP Fashion Writer
A Theatrical Opening at the Institut de France
The anticipation for Paris Fashion Week was palpable as attendees gathered at the stunning Institut de France. Light filtered through the vibrant stained-glass windows, casting colorful patterns across the stage. In an evocative prelude, a cellist played a haunting melody, setting the mood for the day’s festivities. Strategically placed on stage were whimsical elements: an upside-down umbrella and a rotating arrangement of withering sunflowers, creating an atmosphere ripe for creativity and reflection—a fitting tribute to the late Vivienne Westwood.
Embracing the Madness of Westwood
Directing the ensemble was Andreas Kronthaler, who has been at the helm of the Westwood house since her passing in 2022. He boldly infused the show with the kooky essence that has long defined the brand. The collection featured a striking juxtaposition of leopard-print men’s underwear alongside sheer, ribbed tunics exuding medieval flair. This melding of punk and playfulness showcased the versatility of the Westwood aesthetic, with models strutting down the runway in flamboyant ’70s-inspired boots that transformed the esteemed venue into a vibrant carnival.
Deconstructed Silhouettes and Purposeful Chaos
Westwood’s design language was unmistakable, manifesting in the show through draped and deconstructed silhouettes. Dresses sported double skirts, merging traditional elements with a modern twist. Tailoring was intentionally skewed, adding a delightful tension to the visuals. The color palette, intentionally discordant, mixed acidic greens with bold reds, coaxing the audience’s eye to adjust and find beauty in the chaos. A particularly striking piece featured a necklace emblazoned with the word “CHAOS,” a centerpiece that brought forth the nuanced essence of Westwood’s work.
The Punk Legacy
Vivienne Westwood’s influence on fashion is legendary, originating from her roots on King’s Road in the 1970s, where she expertly wove together tartans, corsetry, and distressed tees into the very fabric of punk culture. That rebellious spirit continues to resonate within the brand, even as it becomes increasingly mainstream. A key moment reflecting this evolution was Sarah Jessica Parker’s iconic Westwood bridal gown in Sex and the City, which highlighted the label’s burgeoning presence in the wedding sector—a fact evidenced by the throngs of eager fans clamoring for a glimpse at the Institut de France.
The Maximalist Spirit of Kronthaler
Kronthaler has successfully harnessed and reinterpreted the brand’s foundations. His approach often involves flipping bourgeois standards upside down—distorting jackets, infusing corsetry into knits, and intertwining tartan with intricate modern designs. While his maximalist tendencies can sometimes precipitate visual overload, they also invigorate the house’s narrative, allowing Westwood’s legacy to remain dynamic and undistorted by time.
The Evolution of an Icon
Historically, much of Westwood’s power lay in her ability to reinterpret and innovate upon her vast archives. She tapped into influences ranging from the corset trends of the 1980s to the grandeur of Napoleonic aesthetics and the dramatic undertones of Shakespeare. Since her passing, Kronthaler has evolved from a meticulous custodian of Westwood’s vision to an audacious provocateur. His latest collection moves beyond mere homage, actively creating innovative hybrids—a seamless blend of historical garments with modern, technical fabrics, and skin-tight underwear.
A Final Flourish with Emotion
The show culminated with a poignant finale as supermodel Heidi Klum graced the runway, receiving raucous applause. Kronthaler emerged, cradling an enormous bouquet of sunflowers, so weighty that he had to gingerly set it down before presenting it as a gift. This act was a charming nod not just to the floral centerpiece that had danced behind the models but also to the enduring romanticism that lies at the heart of the Westwood brand.
The Beauty of Visual Discord
Despite any apparent disorder within the collection, its emotional weight and strong convictions remained evident. Few design houses are adept at transforming visual disarray into compelling beauty, yet Westwood continues to master this art. Under the stained glass and amidst the scattered chaos, the collection spoke volumes, celebrating the essence of a legacy that resonates through fashion’s corridors.